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Antique jewellery is more than something lovely to wear—it’s a testament to artistry, patience, and precision. From the Victorian era through the Art Deco movement, each piece tells a story not only of the people who have worn it, but of the skilled hands that brought it to life.

One of the most distinctive elements in antique jewellery is the use of marcasite—tiny, faceted iron pyrite stones set into silver. Popular in the 1920’s-1940’s, marcasite offered an affordable alternative to diamonds. Each stone had to be cut and set by hand, often using a delicate bead setting technique that required immense precision.

Another example of antique craftsmanship is filigree work. This involves twisting fine threads of gold or silver into intricate lace-like patterns. Often seen in Edwardian pieces, filigree demonstrates a level of detail rarely found in modern mass-produced jewellery.

Millegrain detailing is created using a special tool (often called a millegrain wheel or beading tool) that rolls over the metal to form the little bumps. It was used to add a soft, elegant finish to rings, brooches, and pendants, and it also subtly catches the light—giving a piece an extra shimmer without the need for additional stones. This was especially popular in the Edwardian and Art Deco eras.

Enamelling—where coloured glass powder is fused onto metal—added vibrant, lasting colour to antique pieces. Techniques like guilloché enamelling, which layers translucent enamel over engraved patterns, created a luminous, almost ethereal effect.

These traditional methods required not only technical skill but a deep understanding of materials and design. Antique jewellery was never just made—it was crafted with many years of experience, knowledge and love.

Originally published in the Purbeck Gazette on 12th May 2025.