
Gold Standard
Gold has been prized for thousands of years, not only for its beauty but for its durability and symbolism. In antique jewellery, the type and quality of gold used often reflected the fashion, technology, and cultural values of the era. I love discovering different coloured gold jewellery when doing valuations as it gives me so much insight into the history of the piece. I’m not just looking at the hallmarks but also the colour of the gold which can tell me when the piece is likely to date from.
Yellow gold is the most traditional and recognisable form. Made by mixing pure gold with copper and silver, its warm, rich tone was especially popular during the Georgian and Victorian periods. It was used in everything from mourning rings to intricate lockets, and its timeless appeal continues today.
Rose gold, with its subtle pink hue, became fashionable during the Romantic period of the 19th century. The colour comes from a higher copper content, which also makes it slightly more durable. It was often used in sentimental jewellery such as engagement rings and lover’s tokens, symbolising warmth and affection.
White gold didn’t become widely used until the early 20th century, particularly in the Art Deco period. It offered a modern alternative to platinum, which was expensive and difficult to source during wartime. With its sleek, silvery finish, white gold suited the clean lines and geometric designs of the era. It is currently a very popular choice for wedding rings and bands.
Each piece of antique jewellery made with different gold alloys tells a story—not just of the wearer, but of the time in which it was made, reflecting changing tastes, technologies, and traditions through the centuries.
Originally published in the Purbeck Gazette on 23rd June 2025.