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Heirlooms Jewellery

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shop@heirloomsjewellery.co.uk

21 South Street Wareham Dorset BH20 4LR

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Whether you’re searching for the perfect piece, looking for expert advice, or would like to discuss a jewellery repair or bespoke commission, our team is here to help.

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Questions & answers

Frequently asked questions

Welcome to our Frequently Asked Questions. Whether you’re curious about antique jewellery, need advice on a treasured piece, or want to know how to arrange a valuation or repair, this section will guide you. For anything not covered here, please contact us, our expert team is ready to help.

We are a small independent jeweller in Dorset specialising in antique and pre-owned jewellery. We also offer a carefully curated selection of brand new jewellery meaning we can offer something for everyone at all different budgets. Our motto ‘The Story, Continued’ echoes our belief that antique jewellery can be worn and enjoyed in the modern world and not just saved for special occasions.

We are fortunate to have an excellent workshop enabling us to offer repairs on all types of jewellery as well as watches, clocks and silver.

The shop is run and owned by Amy, a qualified jewellery valuer and her colleagues Jo, our Shop Manager and our chief Jewellery Designer alongside Amy.  Rebecca, Jo and Daisy greet customers on the shop floor. When you visit us or ring us, it could be anyone of us you speak to. We guarantee to offer you a friendly welcome.

Our double-fronted shop is the centre of the small market town of Wareham, Dorset, the gateway to the Purbeck Isles and famous Jurassic Coast. You can find us at 21 South Street, just before the river and opposite the well known Bear Hotel. We have bright blue signs!

Antique jewellery is anything older than 100 years old.

Georgian

Dating from the 18th to early 19th centuries, jewellery from this period showcases intricate craftsmanship and romantic designs. Typically handcrafted with gold, silver, and precious gemstones, these pieces often feature floral motifs, scrollwork, and delicate engravings in ornate brooches, drop earrings, and sentimental lockets.

Victorian

Queen Victoria’s reign from 1837-1901 reflects evolving styles from romantic, sentimental pieces to bold, intricate designs. Early Victorian pieces feature floral motifs and gemstones like amethyst and garnet, while later styles see bold designs, dark materials like jet, and complex metalwork.

Art Nouveau

This period runs from the 1890s to 1910s and celebrates natural forms and flowing lines inspired by nature, pieces often feature motifs like flowers, insects, and female figures. Crafted with enamel, opals, and semi-precious stones.

Edwardian

From the early 1900s to World War I, the Edwardians epitomised elegance and sophistication in a changing world. Characterised by delicate filigree work, platinum settings, and the extensive use of diamonds and pearls, popular styles include tiaras, brooches, and pendants. At this time, jewellery developed a special language of its own. For example, suffragettes represented their cause by wearing jewellery made in the suffragette colours – purple, white and green.

Art Deco

Popular in the 1920s and 1930s, Art Deco jewellery is renowned for its bold geometric patterns, vibrant colours, and luxurious materials. Featuring diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires set in platinum, these pieces reflect modernity and elegance. Iconic designs include statement necklaces such as lavaliers and tassled sautoirs, dramatic cocktail rings and long chandelier earrings.

Vintage

Typically from the 1940s to the 1980s, jewellery from this period encompasses a diverse range of styles. It features distinctive and new craftsmanship and materials, for example textured metals, perspex and innovative use of unusual and often inexpensive gemstones. From bold Art Deco inspired designs to glamorous mid-century pieces, vintage jewellery offers excellent value and a glimpse into past fashion trends.

Determining whether your jewellery is truly antique (over 100 years old) involves examining several key factors:

  1. Hallmarks & Maker’s Marks

Look for stamps inside rings, on clasps, or on the back of brooches.

Common antique marks include gold karat stamps (e.g., 18K, 750) or silver marks (e.g., Sterling, 925, or older standards like 800 for continental silver).

Maker’s marks can help identify the jeweller and era. Use online hallmark databases or consult an expert.

  1. Materials & Metalwork

Antique gold often has a deeper, richer patina due to age.

Platinum became popular in the late 19th century, while white gold only emerged around the 1920s.

Pinchbeck, a gold substitute, was used in the 18th and early 19th centuries.

  1. Gemstone Cuts & Settings

Older jewellery features hand-cut gemstones with irregular facets. Look for:

Rose Cut & Old Mine Cut (1700s–1800s)

Old European Cut (late 1800s–early 1900s)

Antique settings include collet settings (Georgian era) and buttercup/prong settings (Victorian & Edwardian eras).

  1. Design & Style Clues

Georgian (1714–1837) – Handmade, floral motifs, closed-back settings.

Victorian (1837–1901) – Romantic, intricate details, mourning jewellery (black enamel, jet).

Art Nouveau (1890–1910) – Flowing lines, nature-inspired motifs.

Edwardian (1901–1915) – Platinum, lace-like filigree, delicate designs.

Art Deco (1920s–1930s) – Geometric shapes, bold designs, and platinum with diamonds.

  1. Clasp & Fastening Styles

C-Clasp (pre-1900s brooches) – Simple “C” shape without a safety mechanism.

Box Clasps (Victorian–Edwardian necklaces & bracelets) – Secure, often ornate.

Hook Clasps & Trombone Clasps (Art Deco era) – Indicate early 20th-century pieces.

  1. Signs of Handcrafting & Wear

True antiques show hand-tooling marks, minor imperfections, and a soft worn appearance.

If a piece looks too perfect or modern, it may be a reproduction.

  1. Provenance & Documentation

If your piece comes with an appraisal, receipt, or family history, it helps confirm authenticity.

Estate sales and antique dealers can sometimes provide background information.

Final Step: Get a Professional Appraisal

At Heirlooms, we can verify your piece using magnification, testing methods, and historical expertise.

What should I look for when buying antique jewellery?

I’m often asked what I look for when valuing antique jewellery. I have extensive experience in the field of antique jewellery having spent ten years as Head of Jewellery at a leading auction house, and have valued and successfully sold many important collections over the years. Here’s some of my process:

If it’s a ring, I put it on my finger to get the proportion and scale – checking that the settings are aren’t too heavy and they are well crafted. If a setting is too chunky, it doesn’t reveal the colour or beauty of the stone enough. Equally a well crafted setting indicates that someone felt the stone was worthwhile taking time over.

Next, I look at the colour. This can help limit the type of gemstone it is. For instance, if it was light blue it could be a sapphire, topaz or aquamarine.

I can ascertain the overall quality of the stone by using an eye glass and I’m looking for the saturation of colour and how well it travels through the stone. I can also see how many inclusions there are which indicate the quality. The fewer inclusions, which are materials trapped in the stone when it was growing, the better the quality and would show more of the true colour.

I then look at the general condition of the piece so if the stones are chipped or scuffed, or a ring shank is thin or has broken claws, it is going to affect the value.

And finally, I consider where the piece has come from. I recently acquired a basic silver & turquoise ring which was in bad condition and worth about £10.  But the customer had proof it was owned by none other than guitar legend Jimi Hendrix which made it much more desirable and worth far more!

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