Frequently Asked Questions

Here are some of the questions we are most  frequently asked:

Who are Heirlooms?

We are a small independent jeweller in Dorset specialising in antique and pre-owned jewellery. We also offer a carefully curated selection of brand new jewellery meaning we can offer something for everyone at all different budgets. Our motto ‘The Story, Continued’ echoes our belief that antique jewellery can be worn and enjoyed in the modern world and not just saved for special occasions.

We are fortunate to have an excellent workshop enabling us to offer repairs on all types of jewellery as well as watches, clocks and silver.

The shop is run and owned by Amy, a qualified jewellery valuer and her colleagues Jo, Freya and Sharon. Jo manages the shop alongside Amy and is our chief jewellery designer. Sharon greets customers on the shop floor alongside Freya who is our trainee jewellery valuer. When you visit us or ring us, it could be anyone of us you speak to. We guarantee to offer you a friendly welcome.

Where are we based?

Our double-fronted shop is the centre of the small market town of Wareham, Dorset, the gateway to the Purbeck Isles and famous Jurassic Coast. You can find us at 21 South Street, just before the river and opposite the well known Bear Hotel. We have bright blue signs!

What qualifies as antique jewellery?

Antique jewellery is anything older than 100 years old.

What are the most popular eras of antique jewellery?

Georgian

Dating from the 18th to early 19th centuries, jewellery from this period showcases intricate craftsmanship and romantic designs. Typically handcrafted with gold, silver, and precious gemstones, these pieces often feature floral motifs, scrollwork, and delicate engravings in ornate brooches, drop earrings, and sentimental lockets.

Victorian

Queen Victoria’s reign from 1837-1901 reflects evolving styles from romantic, sentimental pieces to bold, intricate designs. Early Victorian pieces feature floral motifs and gemstones like amethyst and garnet, while later styles see bold designs, dark materials like jet, and complex metalwork.

Art Nouveau

This period runs from the 1890s to 1910s and celebrates natural forms and flowing lines inspired by nature, pieces often feature motifs like flowers, insects, and female figures. Crafted with enamel, opals, and semi-precious stones.

Edwardian

From the early 1900s to World War I, the Edwardians epitomised elegance and sophistication in a changing world. Characterised by delicate filigree work, platinum settings, and the extensive use of diamonds and pearls, popular styles include tiaras, brooches, and pendants. At this time, jewellery developed a special language of its own. For example, suffragettes represented their cause by wearing jewellery made in the suffragette colours – purple, white and green.

Art Deco

Popular in the 1920s and 1930s, Art Deco jewellery is renowned for its bold geometric patterns, vibrant colours, and luxurious materials. Featuring diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires set in platinum, these pieces reflect modernity and elegance. Iconic designs include statement necklaces such as lavaliers and tassled sautoirs, dramatic cocktail rings and long chandelier earrings.

Vintage

Typically from the 1940s to the 1980s, jewellery from this period encompasses a diverse range of styles. It features distinctive and new craftsmanship and materials, for example textured metals, perspex and innovative use of unusual and often inexpensive gemstones. From bold Art Deco inspired designs to glamorous mid-century pieces, vintage jewellery offers excellent value and a glimpse into past fashion trends.

How can I tell if my jewellery is truly antique?

Determining whether your jewellery is truly antique (over 100 years old) involves examining several key factors:

1. Hallmarks & Maker’s Marks

Look for stamps inside rings, on clasps, or on the back of brooches.

Common antique marks include gold karat stamps (e.g., 18K, 750) or silver marks (e.g., Sterling, 925, or older standards like 800 for continental silver).

Maker’s marks can help identify the jeweller and era. Use online hallmark databases or consult an expert.

2. Materials & Metalwork

Antique gold often has a deeper, richer patina due to age.

Platinum became popular in the late 19th century, while white gold only emerged around the 1920s.

Pinchbeck, a gold substitute, was used in the 18th and early 19th centuries.

3. Gemstone Cuts & Settings

Older jewellery features hand-cut gemstones with irregular facets. Look for:

Rose Cut & Old Mine Cut (1700s–1800s)

Old European Cut (late 1800s–early 1900s)

Antique settings include collet settings (Georgian era) and buttercup/prong settings (Victorian & Edwardian eras).

4. Design & Style Clues

Georgian (1714–1837) – Handmade, floral motifs, closed-back settings.

Victorian (1837–1901) – Romantic, intricate details, mourning jewelry (black enamel, jet).

Art Nouveau (1890–1910) – Flowing lines, nature-inspired motifs.

Edwardian (1901–1915) – Platinum, lace-like filigree, delicate designs.

Art Deco (1920s–1930s) – Geometric shapes, bold designs, and platinum with diamonds.

5. Clasp & Fastening Styles

C-Clasp (pre-1900s brooches) – Simple “C” shape without a safety mechanism.

Box Clasps (Victorian–Edwardian necklaces & bracelets) – Secure, often ornate.

Hook Clasps & Trombone Clasps (Art Deco era) – Indicate early 20th-century pieces.

6. Signs of Handcrafting & Wear

True antiques show hand-tooling marks, minor imperfections, and a soft worn appearance.

If a piece looks too perfect or modern, it may be a reproduction.

7. Provenance & Documentation

If your piece comes with an appraisal, receipt, or family history, it helps confirm authenticity.

Estate sales and antique dealers can sometimes provide background information.

Final Step: Get a Professional Appraisal

At Heirlooms, we can verify your piece using magnification, testing methods, and historical expertise.

Buying & Valuation

What should I look for when buying antique jewellery?

I’m often asked what I look for when valuing antique jewellery. I have extensive experience in the field of antique jewellery having spent ten years as Head of Jewellery at a leading auction house, and have valued and successfully sold many important collections over the years. Here’s some of my process:

If it’s a ring, I put it on my finger to get the proportion and scale – checking that the settings are aren’t too heavy and they are well crafted. If a setting is too chunky, it doesn’t reveal the colour or beauty of the stone enough. Equally a well crafted setting indicates that someone felt the stone was worthwhile taking time over.

Next, I look at the colour. This can help limit the type of gemstone it is. For instance, if it was light blue it could be a sapphire, topaz or aquamarine.

I can ascertain the overall quality of the stone by using an eye glass and I’m looking for the saturation of colour and how well it travels through the stone. I can also see how many inclusions there are which indicate the quality. The fewer inclusions, which are materials trapped in the stone when it was growing, the better the quality and would show more of the true colour.

I then look at the general condition of the piece so if the stones are chipped or scuffed, or a ring shank is thin or has broken claws, it is going to affect the value.

And finally, I consider where the piece has come from. I recently acquired a basic silver & turquoise ring which was in bad condition and worth about £10.  But the customer had proof it was owned by none other than guitar legend Jimi Hendrix which made it much more desirable and worth far more!

How could I start building an Antique Jewellery collection?

Are you attracted by a specific era? Is there a particular style that has always caught your imagination?  For instance, Art Deco or maybe Victorian or Georgian jewellery appeals to you. Or maybe one type of piece like bracelets, rings or earrings. Sticking to one type makes it easier to source and collect.

How much? Have an idea in mind of how much you are prepared to spend on each piece so you don’t get carried away! But, more importantly, if you know roughly how much a specific item from the era you are considering is worth, you will know whether the price is realistic.

Are antique diamonds different from modern diamonds?

The main difference is in the type of cut. Antique cuts are not quite as precise as modern cuts as they relied on the craftsmanship of the diamond cutter and tended to be softer. The benefits of technology mean that modern cuts make the diamond appear more brilliant.

Where is the best place to buy genuine antique jewellery?

Always find a dealer with a good reputation – someone who really knows their stuff and can give you detailed provenance about the piece you are thinking about buying or selling. Take a look at their website to see what people are saying about them. They can also source pieces for you.

Care & Maintenance

How should I clean antique jewellery?

Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive materials. Instead, use a soft, lint-free cloth to gently clean your pieces. If necessary, a mixture of mild soap and lukewarm water can be used, but ensure the jewellery is dried thoroughly afterward to prevent moisture damage. Alternatively, there are many specially formulated cleaners that you can buy that are perfect for the job.

Antique jewellery is very sensitive to chemicals found in everyday products such as perfumes, lotions, hand sanitiser and household cleaners. Always remove jewellery, especially pearls, before applying cosmetics or doing household chores to prevent discoloration or deterioration.

Is it safe to wear antique jewellery daily?

It would depend on the age and condition of the piece. Over time, prongs, clasps, and other settings can loosen. Regularly inspect your jewellery for signs of wear or damage. Here at Heirlooms, we’re happy to take a no-obligation look at your precious pieces to check their condition and recommend any repairs.

Can antique rings be resized without damaging them?

Because the settings are quite old, resizing may weaken them and cause more damage.  Any ring with stones all around the band, such as an eternity ring, are impossible to resize because of the design.

How should I store antique jewellery to prevent damage?

Store each piece of jewellery separately to avoid tangling and scratches. A soft-lined jewellery box or individual cloth pouches work well. Keep them in a dry environment, away from direct sunlight, which can fade gemstones and cause metals to tarnish.

Investment & Value

What should a buyer/collector look for when considering an antique or vintage piece of jewellery?

Definitely look for the condition of the piece, so make sure that there haven’t been any old repairs, things like dark grey patches of old lead solder, which was the old traditional way of repairing antique jewellery. Check that the patterns of decoration match and are symmetrical generally.  Ensure there are no dents or bits that have broken off. Hallmarks should be visible and match with the period of the piece, as should the stones used – ask the person that you’re buying it from because they should know what they’re selling. Anything that is hallmarked is always going to be better than anything that isn’t, although do bear in mind that some pieces of antique jewellery aren’t ever marked and, therefore, it’s all about looking carefully. The most important thing is to buy from somebody reputable, who knows what they are selling. They can provide you with a guarantee and can talk to you about how to look after the piece. And choose something that you love!

What do you take into account when assessing or valuing a piece to acquire for stock?

The first thing I think about is ‘do I like it?’ I can only sell something if I believe in it, it’s genuine and I feel happy selling it. So, I need to make sure that it fits with the style of jewellery and periods of jewellery that we sell. Secondly, it’s all about quality, checking that there isn’t any damage to the piece, making sure that original stones aren’t chipped or so badly scratched that they can’t be restored. A lot of antique jewellery is sold in such poor condition and, because it’s old and people don’t know how to repair it sympathetically, they just leave it and it means that it’s not safe to wear. The most important thing for me is that the jewellery I sell is wearable – I want people to enjoy it.

Any tips on new trends or designers to look out for?

I would definitely say pearls are very on trend. They are probably the most traditional gemstone and, at one point in the 19th century, they were actually more valuable than diamonds because of the risks of diving for them etc. Pearls are now actually being used in a more contemporary way. For Instance, instead of things like rows of pearls, where they are individually strung in order of size, designers are thinking outside of the box and using things like different colored threads for threading so that the knots between the pearls actually become a feature, and muddling up the size and order of the pearls. We recently restrung some pearls with bright pink thread which looked fab. Also, designers are thinking about how they can present the jewellery in a different way such as threading a chain through the pearl instead of suspending the pearl from a bale or a row of pearls.They’re also using different colours of pearls like the gray, blue colour of Tahitian pearls that are just beautiful.

There’s quite a trend for vintage jewellery from the 1970s & 80s made by some of the key jewellery manufacturers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Christian Dior & Chanel in terms of costume jewelry and which are quite fashionable at the moment. That’s what people are buying that’s really different and not run of the mill.

Selling & Restoration

Can I sell my antique jewellery to Heirlooms?

All items are bought by only me, the owner, and no one else – I am a graduate, with more than 18 years of experience dealing with antique and pre-owned jewellery. I am RICS (Royal Institute of Chartered Surveyors) qualified which means I have passed intensive exams in jewellery, silver and other antique categories. I am also qualified at foundation level with the Gemmological Association of GB (CertGA) and have qualified on the practical exam for the Diploma (FGA). I attend many different courses throughout each year specialising in jewellery to fulfil my RICS requirement for continued professional development (CPD).  Above all, I LOVE jewellery!

So, I am very lucky to deal with jewellery on a day-to-day basis and have therefore built up a specific skill set to recognise identifying features of a piece of jewellery. These features could be:

Recognition of hallmarks and signatures –Learning about different makers and understanding their marks can help me date a piece but can also help me determine if that item is genuine or not.

Construction – the way a piece of jewellery has been put together gives me a clue into when it was made. Different manufacturing methods were used at different times. I can recognise the difference between handmade and cast or hand or machine engraving, for example.

Materials – Different materials were used at different times. For example, pre 19th century, most diamonds were set in silver with gold backing as platinum and white gold has not yet been discovered. 15ct gold stopped being used in 1932 so this helps us to date an item. Different gemstones were available at different times, for example, amethyst wasn’t widely used until the late 18th and 19th By looking at inclusions in gemstones such as sapphires, I can determine whether they are natural or synthetic stones. Synthetic sapphires were not introduced commercially in jewellery until late 19th century so this will help me recognise whether a piece has an original stone in or not. The cut of a gemstone can also help me to date a piece.

Condition – The condition of an item of jewellery can give me clues to age. An 18th century piece is likely to show repairs and marks consistent with age and wear. If these are missing, one would question the originality of the piece and look for other clues to prove the age. Condition also gives me an idea of how that item has been used. If a ring has been worn as engagement ring, it may well have wear marks to the side of the setting where it has been sitting up against a wedding band.

Styles – All era-specific styles can be reproduced over time but distinctive styles such as those from the Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles give me a clearer timeline and, together with other clues above, can help confirm age and identity.

If you have an item of jewellery that you wish to find out more about, Heirlooms can help you. Send in a photo or pop into the shop (when we are open) and I will happily examine it and let you know what I think. This is a free service and is only chargeable if you require information in writing or wish to know the value.

We’re extremely proud that part of our guarantee to customers is that every single item purchased from us is checked and in a condition that allows it to be ready to wear and to last generations.

To ensure this, we follow a strict process:

CHECK – when a new piece arrives, we carefully examine it. We check that the identity of the stones matches what we bought it as, we check the condition of the piece to assess what repairs if any are needed, we test the metal to ensure it matches the hallmarking assay mark.

CLEAN – Each piece is sent to our workshop to be professional cleaned. This removes any dust and grease from the stones. The shanks are polished on a gentle buffer machine to remove scratches. Repairs are only carried out if we feel they are going to positively enhance the jewel and be sympathetic to the overall integrity of the piece.

CHECK – When the items returns from the workshop, we check again to ensure the piece is totally clean and has not been damaged during the cleaning process.

CATALOGUE – every item is allocated a stock code and fully catalogued and photographed. This involves writing a description of the item including weights, measurements, hallmarks, gemstone sizes and any information we have about its provenance. We take photographs of all of our stock from different angles to use on our website and send to customers to showcase each piece to its best advantage, as well as a record of items we have in stock for insurance purposes.